Finding Track Section Part Numbers
I have issue number 37 and I would like to assemble the two-lane Laguna Seca track from page 19. My question is, using Scalextric track, how do I determine which curves to use? What is the Scalextric Sport part number for an “O” Outer Curve, “”OO” Outer-Outer Curve, etc.?
Thank you
Terry Enos
The track plans list the curves by size because there are at least six different part numbers that can apply to any one of them. Sport track curves are designated by an R-series, with R-1 being an inner (H), R2 a standard (S), R3 and outer (O) and R4 and outer-outer (OO). Carrera has an even larger curve that we designate as an outer-outer-outer (OOO). You will also want buy the outer borders for all the curves, inner borders for most curves and borders for most straights. You can obtain the Scalextric part numbers from their catalog or website: www.scalextric-usa.com.
SCX Compact Track
During pre-Christmas shopping, I ran across a model car racing set by SCX called SCX Compact. This was at the Target store(s). It is in 1/43 scale. It is modern, in that the cars are last years F1 and NASCAR models
Going to the SCX Web site shows no mention of this system what so ever and my hobby shop, which sells SCX sets and equipment, knows nothing of it.
My question is somewhat obvious then:
Is this a “promotion” for Target only, and hence it will not be supported in the future?
Any information you have about this system and its future (or lack of same) would be appreciated.
I was unable to access your web site prior to writing this, hence I would appreciate an email response to my question(s)
Thanks
J. Bereza
There is an SCX Compact website: http://www.scxcompact.es/. SCX hopes to sell some of the Compact line through hobby dealers but, so far, Target is the only source. You can check individual Target stores but I understand most have sold out. It is intended as entry level with the hope that folks will move up to 1/32. It’s “future” then, would be 1/32 scale even if Target or whoever carries it for the next 20 Christmas seasons.
The Moss’ 1961 Monaco Lotus 18 Legend
We perpetuated a legend that is just that, a legend, in the article in the March/April 2008 number 38 issue on Stirling Moss’ Lotus 18 that he drove to win at Monaco in1961. The real (from Stirling’s own lips) truth is that the sides were left off the car because the mechanics had just welded the oft-breaking Lotus frame tubes and there was not time to reinstall them, not because Stirling’s bum was overheating. Having said that, the sides were also missing off one of the Lotus 21 racers in South Africa in1962, probably because of more broken chassis tubes. And the body and chassis source for that Lotus 18, Penelope Pitlane, has a new address 52 Hendidley Way, Newtown, Powys SY16 2AL, England.
Swapping-Out Digital For Analog
Jim at Hotslots clued me in about your mag. Until than I hadn’t heard of you guys. I will subscribe to your magazine now that I know of it. My question for now though is this. Jim said that in a past article you described how to make a Carrera Pro-x digital track into a quick change digital to non-digital so I could run my 1/24 analog cars on it too. If this is true could you tell me which past issue it’s in so I could look for it. Looking forward to reading your magazine.
Thank you for any help,
blak__jak
The March/April 2005 number 20 issue describes the process. You will need to modify the lane-changers. Also it is really far easier to modify the tabs on a conventional terminal/connector track and on the Pro-X terminal connector track so they can be swapped in and out (leaving the lane changers).We showed how do it with Sport Digital in the July/August 2006 number 28 issue and the process would be similar for Carrera. You can only run Carerra Pro-X Digital (or Carrera’s newer Digital 132) cars (when the track is in digital mode) as Carrera does not have a retrofit kit for other brands.
Seeing Spots
I noticed that some of LeMans cars from the mid-sixties have yellow dots about 4-inches diameter placed in one or two visible spots on the bodywork. What were they supposed to indicate?
Regards,
Jess Gorson
There does not seem to be any standard. There are books that have illustrated every car that ran at LeMans in the sixties. Some of the cars have dots, some don’t. In black and white, it is difficult to determine color. However, Bill Murray from the Shelby American Collection, explained-away my doubts: the Ford GT Mk. IV that they have has a red dot because it was fiberglass and, thus, potentially a fire problem in a major accident, The cars with aluminum or steel (non-flammable) bodies had yellow dots. Cars with aluminum fenders and fiberglass bodies had yellow dots on the fenders and red dots on the bodies. The practice dates back to at least 1961 and continued (randomly it seems) until at least 1967.
The Original Sidewinder
The article on the Mercedes 300SLR with Auto Hobbies motor in the March/April 2008 number 38 issue indicated that motor was one modified for Auto Hobbies. Are they still in business? Can the motors be purchased?
Sincerely,
Bill Moore
The Auto Hobbies motors were variations on model train motors of the early sixties. Bill Sipple (who was Auto Hobbies) convinced Pittman to run a batch of the 703 motors, that were replacement-upgrades for Athearn F3 diesel motors, with 5-40 threaded shafts in place of the model railroad’s bare shafts. Later the motor magnet was beefed-up and the armature winding specs upgraded to become the 704, which Pittman also sold. No, Pittman did not narrow the motors, solder them together, nor rewind them like the one in the Mercedes. That’s all hand-work. Pittman later offered the motor under their own label as well as an inline motor with built-in rear axle brackets labeled a DC196B that was, again, a development of a model train motor. Auto Hobbies ceased operations in the late seventies and Bill Sipple is now deceased, but his pioneering work lives on.